On gold: why 18ct is the correct choice for a ring worn daily

Gold used in jewellery is an alloy — pure 24ct gold is too soft to hold its shape in a wearable ring, so it is combined with other metals to increase hardness. The most common alloys for fine jewellery are 18ct (75% gold) and 14ct (58.5% gold). Both are widely used. They are not equivalent, and for a ring worn daily over decades, the difference matters.

The composition difference and what it produces

18ct gold contains more gold and less base metal. The consequence is a richer colour — deeper yellow in yellow gold, warmer in rose gold — and a finish that polishes more brilliantly and maintains that polish longer. The higher gold content also means the metal is more resistant to the tarnishing and patina that base metal components introduce over time.

14ct gold contains more copper, zinc, and nickel (depending on colour). These base metals are harder than gold, which means 14ct alloys are technically more scratch-resistant in isolation. But scratch resistance is not the same as quality of finish — and a 14ct ring that scratches less will also polish to a lesser finish and will show, over years of wear, the characteristic surface changes that come from a higher base metal content.

Why I work in 18ct only

I use 18ct gold and platinum because the level of finish I am working to requires it. The depth of colour, the quality of the mirror polish, and the behaviour of the metal under the lighting conditions in which a ring is actually worn — all of these are materially better in 18ct than in 14ct. The difference is not academic at the level I work at. It is visible in person.

14ct is a legitimate choice at lower price points, where the economics of using a higher gold alloy are genuinely difficult to justify. At the price levels of a Rauno Oidram ring, using 14ct would be a false economy — saving material cost at the expense of the thing the material cost is there to produce.

The gold price context

Gold prices have risen significantly over the past decade. In 2014, gold traded at approximately €900 per troy ounce. By 2026, it is closer to €2,800. This has increased the material cost component of fine jewellery substantially. It has not changed the design argument for 18ct over 14ct. A ring that contains less gold per gram of weight is still a different ring, regardless of what gold costs.

A note on white gold

White gold is a yellow gold alloy — still 18ct in content — mixed with white metals (most commonly nickel or palladium) and then rhodium-plated to achieve its bright white appearance. The rhodium plating is what makes white gold look as bright as platinum. Over time, the plating wears, and the ring needs to be re-plated — typically once every one to two years for a ring in regular daily use. This is a minor service, not an inconvenience, but it is worth understanding before choosing white gold over platinum.

For a comparison of platinum and gold across all relevant considerations, read Platinum or gold: making the metal choice. For how metal choice affects diamond colour selection, see On diamond colour.