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Designing the engagement ring and wedding band together

Most engagement rings are designed without the wedding band in mind, and most wedding bands are chosen after the fact to work around an engagement ring they were never designed to accompany. The result, in many cases, is two rings that sit awkwardly together — a gap between them, a mis-matched aesthetic register, or a combination that makes both look worse than either would alone.

This is a solvable problem, but only if you think about it in advance.

The three approaches

Commission both rings together. The cleanest solution. The wedding band is designed as a companion to the engagement ring from the beginning — matching proportions, the same or complementary surface finishes, and a profile that allows the two rings to sit flush against each other without a gap or an awkward step. This is what I recommend whenever the client is open to it, and it adds relatively little complexity to the commission process.

Commission the engagement ring now, hold space for the wedding band. If the wedding is some years away, or if the partner wants to choose the wedding band themselves, I can design the engagement ring with a straight inner profile at the shoulders — rather than a curved or swept profile that follows the contour of a specific band shape. A straight-shouldered ring is easier to match against a standard band purchased later, from any source.

Add a custom band after the wedding. If an existing engagement ring was not designed for a companion band, a bespoke band can usually be made to work around it. This requires fitting the band to the actual ring — either with a curved inner edge that follows the engagement ring’s profile, or with a shaped outer edge that complements it. It is more complex than designing them together but produces better results than choosing a standard band off the shelf.

The gap problem

The most common visual issue in pairs of engagement and wedding rings worn together is a gap between them — a space that catches light, collects debris, and makes the combination read as accidental rather than considered. Gaps occur when the engagement ring has a shaped shoulder or a high setting that pushes the adjacent band away.

There are two solutions. The first is a shaped wedding band — a ring with a curved inner surface designed to sit flush against the contour of the engagement ring’s setting. The second is a flat-shouldered engagement ring design where the band can sit flat against a standard wedding ring. Both work; the first produces the more seamless result.

What I do in practice

For every engagement ring commission, I ask whether the client is thinking about the wedding band. If yes, we discuss it as part of the design — even if the band itself is not commissioned until later. I can hold the specifications, the metal samples, and the design language of the engagement ring so that a companion band, commissioned months or years later, is designed in relation to it rather than in ignorance of it.

For clients who want both rings at once, I design and produce them as a pair. The wedding band is finished at the same time as the engagement ring and delivered together, allowing the full picture to be seen before the wedding rather than assembled on the day.

For the full commission process, including timeline and cost, read A guide to commissioning bespoke. For the difference between signature and bespoke options, see On the difference between custom, signature, and bespoke.

— Rauno Oidram

Rauno is a jewellery designer based in Tallinn, Estonia. He has designed engagement rings since 2017, and his work is finished by craftsmen in Valenza, Italy.

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